Paris (France) (AFP) – Briton Martine Rose, from a Jamaican family, was named creative director of Balenciaga, the famous French fashion and luxury house that she knew during the Demna era, on Friday, becoming the first woman in this position.
Published on: 06/11/2026 - 10:56
“It is an immense privilege to be appointed creative director of Balenciaga, a house with an extraordinary heritage and a bold creative spirit that has always inspired me,” said the 45-year-old designer, quoted in a press release from the Kering group announcing her appointment.
She thus becomes one of the rare black designers at the head of a major luxury house, alongside Grace Wales Bonner, also British and Caribbean, appointed last year to men's design at Hermès.
Martine Rose knows the house founded in 1917 by Cristóbal Balenciaga well, since between 2015 and 2018, she was a consultant for Balenciaga's men's collections alongside the Georgian Demna, who recruited her upon her arrival.
The fashion world knows the role it played in the aesthetic shift that made this period successful: loose and oversized silhouettes, boxy suits, "dad shoes" - large retro-inspired sneakers - and a diversion of pop codes.
The Briton founded her own eponymous men's fashion brand in London in 2007. Showcasing in alleys, or in a climbing gym, the designer flourishes in the world of British countercultures, from rave to hip-hop via punk and English football, markers that could appeal to Balenciaga, always seeking to consolidate an increasingly popular image among young people.
For Luca de Meo, general director of Kering, Martine Rose embodies “the spirit” of a house “of radical creativity”.
“Its proximity to the new generation and its close links with culture bring a new dimension to the house,” he added.
“Rihanna is regularly seen in his creations, while Kendrick Lamar has almost made her his official dresser for some of the biggest moments of his career,” underlines British Vogue on Friday.
The fashion world welcomes this appointment, like fashion consultant Dryce Lahssan who wrote on Instagram “We love Martine, here we go!”.
- "Major maneuvers" -
His name has been circulating insistently for several weeks to succeed Pierpaolo Piccioli, whose departure was announced on Thursday.
The Italian arrived in May 2025 as artistic director of Balenciaga, founded in Spain but based in Paris since 1937, after 25 years at Valentino, of which he had taken over the reins with Maria Grazia Chiuri.
The 59-year-old stylist was tasked with opening a “new chapter” for the luxury house after the era of the Georgian Demna, as flamboyant as it was controversial.
Martine Rose, still little known in France, will take office on November 16 and her first show should take place in February during Paris Fashion Week.
The rumor of Piccioli's replacement had stirred women's fashion week in Paris in early October, particularly due to lower-than-expected sales at Kering, according to press reports.
“Pierpaolo was not happy at Balenciaga,” commented fashion journalist Sophie Fontanel, regarding this transplant which did not take hold.
The luxury group, which owns many labels such as Gucci, Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta, recently launched major maneuvers within its houses.
On October 9, he announced the departure of the artistic director of Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello, in post since 2016, a few days before letting Sean McGirr leave as artistic director of Alexander McQueen, a sign of a vast creative reshuffle initiated by the general director of Kering, Luca de Meo.
© 2026 AFP
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