image copyrightGetty Images
"When I put on eyeliner in my apartment in Brooklyn, so far from home, I feel like I connect with my mother, my grandmother and women from all over the Middle East," journalist Zahra Hankir tells BBC Global Women.
Last December, UNESCO, the UN cultural agency, recognized the importance of Arabic kohl by including it on its list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Kohl, a dark pigment traditionally applied around the eyes on both men and women, has roots dating back thousands of years to ancient civilizations.
Although it is known as kohl in the Arab world, it goes by different names in other regions: kajal in South Asia, tira in Nigeria, and sormeh in Iran.
Traditionally it was made from antimony, lead or other minerals; Modern kohl products include other ingredients.
The cosmetic holds a special place for British-Lebanese writer Zahra Hankir, whose family moved to England from Lebanon to escape the 1975 civil war.
"I used to watch my mom apply makeup when we lived away from home," she explains.
"I felt like she was connecting with something very deep."
End of Most read
It's the same connection she says she feels when she puts on eyeliner.
image copyrightZahra Hankir
All the news you need is on BBC World Service
Download it here
End of Ad app
Hankir, author of Eyeliner: A Cultural History, says that UNESCO's recognition frames kohl "not as a fashion or a product, but as a living cultural practice that deserves to be protected."
"This type of recognition helps preserve the knowledge, rituals and craftsmanship surrounding the making and use of kohl, ensuring that they are documented, passed down and valued across generations, rather than being diluted or lost in the globalized culture of commercial makeup," she explains.
It was pulling out a jar of this makeup at dinner with an Iranian friend that sparked a conversation about its history and symbolism, and inspired Hankir to delve deeper into the history of kohl and the use of eyeliner in general.
"It was that realization that kohl means something very profound to women, to minority women, and to women living in the diaspora," she notes.
"More than beauty"
Kohl's roots date back to the ancient civilizations of Egypt, Mesopotamia and Persia.
In Ancient Egypt, according to Hankir, everyone used it, regardless of gender or social class.
"They wore it for reasons that went far beyond beauty," he explains, indicating that it also served to transmit spirituality and protect the eyes from diseases.
"The ancient Egyptians buried their jars of kohl with them, to take them to the afterlife, which shows the importance it had."
It was probably the Egyptian queen Nefertiti who became the first "influencer" when it came to using eyeliner, Hankir notes.
The famous bust of Nefertiti, found by a German archaeological team led by Ludwig Borchardt in 1912 in Egypt, shows the unmistakable use of kohl on the eyes.
"Her eyebrows are arched, perfect in shape and filled in with a smoky black dye, possibly kohl. The color contrast is stark, but the queen's overall appearance is impeccable," Hankir writes in his book.
In Germany, women tried to emulate their "exotic" appearance by wearing kohl, associating it with beauty, authority and empowerment, Hankir adds.
Nefertiti's makeup is still in fashion:
"There are hundreds of tutorials on YouTube, TikTok and Instagram that imitate the queen's face with a surprising degree of accuracy," Hankir writes.
The eyeliner beyond kohl
Hankir's research into eyeliner has taken her around the world.
From Kerala to Chad, Mexico, Jordan and Japan, their travels reveal that although eyeliner is widely used and varies in application and meaning, its function as a form of protection remains a common thread.
Its uses range from protection from the sun and the "evil eye" to religious rituals and medicinal purposes.
In Japan, he spoke with geishas – traditional Japanese performers specializing in music, dance and conversation – who wear red eyeliner, a symbol of protection that endures to this day.
Meanwhile, in Mexican-American Chola culture, eyeliner is a powerful symbol of identity, resistance, and cultural pride, Hankir explains.
And, just like in Ancient Egypt, Hankir has observed that, in some parts of the world, eyeliner is not worn exclusively by women.
In Chad, Hankir spent time with the Wadabi, a nomadic Fulani group known for their annual beauty pageant, where women judge men on their appearance.
"Bedouin men in Petra, Jordan, wear eyeliner not only to protect themselves from the sun or express their religiosity, but also because they know it makes them look good," he laughs.
"In addition, it is a rite of passage into adulthood and a marker of singleness."
Eyeliner is also frequently applied to children's eyes, a practice that some consider protective.
In fact, it is common for Arabic-speaking countries to give names such as Kajal or Kahilain, reflecting the cultural importance of eyeliner.
Hankir states that UNESCO's recognition of kohl was "a long time coming" and gives "credit to communities in the Global South, especially in the Arab world, who have preserved and sustained this tradition for centuries, often in the face of displacement, colonialism and cultural loss."
But for the writer, the connection to her own culture is what makes the act of applying kohl so meaningful.
"It's almost a spiritual act. It's almost ritual when you put it on. You're connecting with so much more than just drawing a line across your eyes," he says.
Click here to read more stories from BBC News Mundo.
Subscribe here to our new newsletter to receive a selection of our best content of the week every Friday.
You can also follow us on YouTube, Instagram, TikTok, X, Facebook and our WhatsApp channel.
And remember that you can receive notifications in our app. Download the latest version and activate them.
Discover more
Video
End of Video
