Paris (France) (AFP) – The French luxury house Hermès presented on Saturday, in the courtyard of the Republican Guard in Paris, a women's collection which makes the zipper its leitmotif and the ultra-thin strap an accessory, even an item of clothing.

Published on: 03/10/2026 - 16:52

“The breeze slips between the skin and the material. A hem rises, a sleeve swells, a slit appears while each garment comes to life gently: as if in weightlessness,” writes Nadège Vanhée, who has headed women's fashion at Hermès since 2014, in her note of intent.

Omnipresent, the zipper modulates the length of a skirt, runs on leather jackets or along flared blue pants. It gives the collection an air that is both sensual and technical.

An ensemble composed of a belted brown jacket and an adjustable-length silk-faille skirt, or a godet dress in white silk net mesh, rubs shoulders with sunset orange silhouettes.

Founded in 1837 and originally a harness and saddle maker, the house, still controlled by the family, visits the stables of the last cavalry of the Republic every season.

For an afternoon, police and soldiers rub shoulders, in an explosive mix, with the brand's richest and most loyal customers, coming from the four corners of the world.

The manufacturer of the famous Kelly bag, which generates almost half of its sales in leather goods and saddlery, is also going through a zone of turbulence, even if it is holding up better than the rest of the sector.

On July 29, the group which embodies French ultra-luxury saw its shares fall by up to 11% during the session on the day of the publication of its nevertheless solid half-year results.

Since then, several banks have lowered their price targets, citing persistent weakness in demand in China, long one of the most dynamic luxury markets. The stock has lost nearly 39% since January 1.

The house will publish its third quarter sales figures on October 22, and the fashion show must maintain its aura between now and then.

Nadège Vanhée's first haute couture collection will be presented in January during Paris Couture Week.

At the same time, the British Grace Wales Bonner will make her catwalk debut as artistic director of menswear.

She succeeds Véronique Nichanian, who left the house in January after 37 years.

© 2026 AFP

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